Petticoats and Bustle Pads

Hello everyone!

I thought I´ll sew some undergarments as they go relatively quickly before I start working on another major sewing project. So, here they are! :)

First one is 18th century basic under petticoat. I loosely based the design on the one in a book The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Sewing, except I made the closure differently. On each side is a gap for easy access to pockets and front ties tie up in the back and back ties tie up in the front. As a material for the petticoat I used some heavy weight linen blend I had in my stash. Originally I planned to sew cat beds from it but well... Second picture shows front view of a Bum Pad. Pattern I used for it is from Simplicity: 8162. Material for this Bum Pad and other two Bustle Pads in this post was a cotton drill remnant from my Imperial Tournure.

Side and back view of the Bum Pad.

Then I (finally) made 1880´s Winter Petticoat! It is made in flannel (cotton). Pattern I used is from Truly Victorian: TV170, View3 - Late Bustle. First picture shows the petticoat worn over Imperial Tournure and second over Bustle Pad that is shown below. I like the first silhouette better but Bustle Pad is somewhat more practical for everyday wear. 

Side-back view of the petticoat worn over a Bustle Pad.

As the fabric is printed it doesn´t show easily on a photograph, but I sewed all tucks on a flounce that the pattern suggested. This way the flounce stands out nicely.

1870´s-1880´s Bustle Pad on it´s own. As stuffing I used my discarded clean nylon stockings that had holes in them. I cut them to small pieces first. I don´t remember exactly how many there were, but there was a full bag of them. I filled with them all three pads I made and I almost run out of them. Makes one think what a foolish investment nylon stockings are. Certainly not durable at least in my case... I learned my lesson and I plan to purchase in the future only silk, cotton and wool stockings.

Back view of the Bustle Pad.

Small Bum Pad for 1890´s to Edwardian era skirts. The purpose of this pad is to fill the hollow lower back and create more round behind. :)

Back view of the Bum Pad.

Bum Pad worn under Edwardian Petticoat which I forgot to iron before taking the picture. Sorry! 

Thank you for reading and see you next time!

1850´s and 1870´s Day Dresses

Hello everyone!

Here is the last part of our summer photo-shoot which I didn´t get around posting. But better late than never. ;) 

I´m wearing a 1850´s Printed Cotton Day Dress with a circular crinoline underneath. Sewing process of this dress can be found here. The skirt is attached to the bodice which fastens in front with hooks and eyelets. Skirt fastens with tiny snap fasteners on a side.

The lace shawl I´m wearing is knitted in brushed alpaca yarn using Estonian traditional shawl pattern called Lilac Leaf Shawl. The pattern is from a book Knitted Lace of Estonia by Nancy Bush.

Victorian Wrist Warmers are knitted in wool-silk blend and the pattern is from a book Knitting Lingerie Style by Joan McGowan-Michael.

Detail of a smocking on the bodice.

And the second dress modeled by my sister Lily is a 1870´s Taffeta Day Dress. Sewing process of this dress can by found here. Imperial bustle is worn underneath the skirt. Dress is in four pieces- bodice, skirt, overskirt and a peplum. Bodice fastens in front with hooks and eyelets.

Sleeves have large heavily embellished cuffs which were typical for this period.

Back view of the dress.

Detail of the cuff. Gloves were crocheted by me.

Matching reticule with machine embroidery and tassel trim. 

Bustle Era Hat embellished with floral trim on a brim, cascading satin bows on both sides and large satin bows in front, netting and a flower in the back. Pattern is from Lynn McMasters (Bustle Era Hat, view B).

Side view of the hat.

That´s all for today, I hope you enjoyed the pictures as much as we enjoyed taking them! See you next time! :)

1870's Day Dress

Moving forward! I finally sewed my way from 1840´s all the way to 1870´s a.k.a. the First Bustle Era! I love bustle dresses! It is my all time favorite attire both 1870´s and 1880´s bustle fashions.   

This dress is a replica project from a book Making Victorian Costumes for Women by Heather Audin. Again rather than scaling the pattern I drafted it myself. Bodice is flat-lined with cotton fabric and it is boned with 5mm wide spiral steel bones. It is fastened with tiny hooks. Skirt, overskirt and peplum fasten with larger hooks and bars. 

Materials used for this dress are: 

• 4m lilac taffeta
• 3m beige taffeta
• 2m cotton lining
• 14 self-cover buttons
• 3m of cotton tape to tie up the bustle
• and lots of various trims!

Front and 3/4 view of 1870´s day Dress.

Side and back view of 1870's Day Dress.

As the neckline of this dress is quite low, I had to make a chemisette to fill it in. Chemisette is a clever faux shirt which resembles a bib in front and back and it is tied with tapes on each side. This way a Victorian lady didn´t have to wear another layer of clothing.

Chemisette worn underneath the bodice.

Imperial Tournure worn underneath the dress. I still have to make top petticoat to go over the tournure =bustle.

Sleeves in 1870´s were wide and had large heavily embellished cuffs. Inside the sleeve is engageante from my 1840´s dress.

A detail of tassel trim.

Detail of peplum. 

Sewing contrasting border onto peplum. I aligned the strip with peplum´s edge and pinned it in place. Then I turned inner edge of the strip under and pinned in place.

Then I slip-stitched the strip onto peplum. I sewed short sides first and then the bottom edge separately.

 Peplum and bottom edge prepared for sewing together.

Bottom edge pinned onto peplum and ready to be slip-stitched in place. 

This project was largely time consuming and laborious but it was fun to make. It definitely won´t be my last bustle dress. ;)

 <3 Want more bustle dresses! <3