1880´s Christmas Bustle Dress

Hello again!

Please, let me introduce you ... my 1880´s Christmas dress! A little late but better late than never, right? ;) I started working on this ensemble last year a little too late in December, it was 10.12. I think. And with all Christmas hurry I just couldn´t complete it in to weeks. I got it finished in 11.1. instead. But it will be ready for next Christmas. ;) The whole idea for this dress came from a beautiful quilting cotton I found in a store in the beginning of December. It´s the plaid one I used for skirt and faux vest. It is the only material I purchased for this ensemble, everything else came from my stash.

For overskirt I used Truly Victorian pattern (TV362 1884 Wash Overskirt). Great pattern, easy and quick assembly but it eats a lot of fabric! I was lucky I had quite a lot of red tulle lace, but still I had to piece it a bit. For skirt I used my own 3-panel pattern I drafted last year.

Detail of the embroidery. The Blue Jay and Tea Cup design is from Embroidery Library. It´s embroidered by machine using mostly viscose embroidery thread. Then I embroidered beads and sequins around the design. For collar trim I pleated double-face satin ribbon and hand-sewed crystals on it.

Detail of lace applique, beading and sequins. All sewn by hand.

For bodice I used pattern by Truly Victorian (TV463- 1884 French Vest Bodice). This is second time I used this pattern and I love it! It is truly unique how it instructs you to draft the pattern to fit you like a glove. All pieces are flatlined separately, then the bodice is sewn together, boned with 5mm wide spiral steel boning and then lined with cotton lining.

Detail of the hat. The pattern is Bustle Era Hat by Lynn McMasters, view C. Although I love it and it is probably the most beautiful hat I´ve made so far, I have an issue with it- it took 4 hatpins to keep it in place and I still didn´t feel like it is secured properly. The reason why it doesn´t want to sit on the head properly is that the bottom edge of the crown is more curved than the head. I love the outcome but because of this I probably won´t be making more of view C in the future. I´ll option for views A & B I made before and they fit perfectly with just one hatpin.

The materials I used for this project: 

-red striped tulle/lace I used for the overskirt

-horrible skull quilting cotton I used for lining the bodice

-black/silver velvet I didn´t use

-black plaid snowflake quilting cotton I used for the skirt and faux vest

-cranberry quilting cotton I used for bodice

-red guipure lace off-cut I used for appliques

-red satin I used as lining for pleats on the bodice

Here is the leftover of cranberry quilting cotton I used for bodice, you can see I had to place all pieces very strategically to get them all cut out. I got this fabric from my dear friend Liisa, thank you darling! I bet you didn´t guess what will come out of it. ;)

Jia helping to press bodice pieces. :)

Geisha with collar pieces that need to be pressed.

And Chanel found the best possible bed on a buckram I used for the base of the hat.

That´s all for today folks, thank you for reading!