Petticoats and Bustle Pads

Hello everyone!

I thought I´ll sew some undergarments as they go relatively quickly before I start working on another major sewing project. So, here they are! :)

First one is 18th century basic under petticoat. I loosely based the design on the one in a book The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Sewing, except I made the closure differently. On each side is a gap for easy access to pockets and front ties tie up in the back and back ties tie up in the front. As a material for the petticoat I used some heavy weight linen blend I had in my stash. Originally I planned to sew cat beds from it but well... Second picture shows front view of a Bum Pad. Pattern I used for it is from Simplicity: 8162. Material for this Bum Pad and other two Bustle Pads in this post was a cotton drill remnant from my Imperial Tournure.

Side and back view of the Bum Pad.

Then I (finally) made 1880´s Winter Petticoat! It is made in flannel (cotton). Pattern I used is from Truly Victorian: TV170, View3 - Late Bustle. First picture shows the petticoat worn over Imperial Tournure and second over Bustle Pad that is shown below. I like the first silhouette better but Bustle Pad is somewhat more practical for everyday wear. 

Side-back view of the petticoat worn over a Bustle Pad.

As the fabric is printed it doesn´t show easily on a photograph, but I sewed all tucks on a flounce that the pattern suggested. This way the flounce stands out nicely.

1870´s-1880´s Bustle Pad on it´s own. As stuffing I used my discarded clean nylon stockings that had holes in them. I cut them to small pieces first. I don´t remember exactly how many there were, but there was a full bag of them. I filled with them all three pads I made and I almost run out of them. Makes one think what a foolish investment nylon stockings are. Certainly not durable at least in my case... I learned my lesson and I plan to purchase in the future only silk, cotton and wool stockings.

Back view of the Bustle Pad.

Small Bum Pad for 1890´s to Edwardian era skirts. The purpose of this pad is to fill the hollow lower back and create more round behind. :)

Back view of the Bum Pad.

Bum Pad worn under Edwardian Petticoat which I forgot to iron before taking the picture. Sorry! 

Thank you for reading and see you next time!

Victorian & Edwardian Underpinnings

We had a photo-shoot of my historical garments this summer and we took over 400 pictures! Don´t worry, I´m not going to post them all here ;) I thought I´ll divide them into a couple sub-chapters and the first one is... underpinnings! However, this is still going to be a long post as we shot some older stuff as well. And my dear sister agreed to model some of the garments, thank you sweetie! <3

Corsets & Chemises

My second Victorian corset using Laughing Moon´s Dore Corset pattern. I made a few adjustments, lowered the armpit for comfort, made wider hips and corrected some other fit issues. This one has 33 cm long straight busk with gold clasps. Although I must say I prefer the 36 cm long busk I used on my previous corset. Fabric is a beautiful cream jacquard coutil with gold roses. And gold lace trim. I love gold! Split drawers are from the turn of the century and the pattern was from a book Making Edwardian Costumes for Women by Suzanne Rowland. 

Detail of hand embroidered chemise worn underneath the corset. Chemise was previously introduced here and here.

My first Victorian corset using Laughing Moon´s Dore Corset pattern. Previous post about the corset can be found here. Lily is also wearing split drawers made using the same pattern as mine above. I made three pairs of them. I find them very comfy! :)

Detail of the crochet yoke on the chemise. More about the chemise here. 

Detail of the flossing. 

Second chemise I made using the same crochet pattern as the yellow one above. I added satin ribbons.

Back of the chemise.

Front of the chemise.

Chemise without the corset photographed on a mannequin for modesty. :) 

Victorian Corset made using Laughing Moon´s Silverado corset pattern. This corset is a bit longer than Dore corset. I used 36 cm long spoon busk, which is my new favorite busk by the way. ;) The fabric is jacquard coutil dyed with antique blue dye. Cotton corset laces are dyed as well with the same dye. Edwardian chemise is a replica of an actual antique chemise, the pattern is from the book Making Edwardian Costumes for Women by Suzanne Rowland. Split drawers are my third pair from the same book.

Detail of chemise trims.

Silverado is a bust-gore corset pattern. Here is a detail of the flossing embroidered on the boning channels and on the bottom of the bust-gores.

Tucks on the front bib of the chemise.

Gold aglets! :)

Corset flossing.

And again chemise photographed on a mannequin for modesty. 

Corset Cover

Corset cover previously introduced here. 

Tournures

Imperial Tournure suitable for 1880´s Second Bustle Era. Sewing process can be found here.

Regular Tournure for 1870´s First Bustle Era. Pattern was from Truly Victorian (1887 Imperial Tournure TV163- Regular Tournure).

Comparison of the two tournures.

I managed to use some bias binding of-cuts from previous projects to complete Regular Tournure. Luckily shades matched the fabric (not that they are really visible on the garment...).

Petticoats

1840´s -1850´s Petticoat previously introduced here.

Detail of the exquisite embroidered cotton fabric used for the petticoat.

Edwardian Petticoat which is a replica of an antique petticoat. The pattern is from the book Making Edwardian Costumes for Women by Suzanne Rowland. This was a LABORIOUS project! But it was well worth it, I love the outcome!

Detail of the top flounce with pintucks and lace insertions.

Two lace insertions on the top flounce.

Sewing 4 m of dense pintucks on the top flounce! Yeah! 4 m!!! It took me two spools of thread to sew them.

And each pintuck had four threads to be knotted and cut off...

Thanks for reading and see you soon! :)