28/01/2017

Imperial Tournure

Wired bustle has been on my "To do" -list for quite a while and I thought now would be a perfect moment to make it. Since I really need it, you know ;) I ordered pattern and supplies for this project as a kit. The pattern I used is the amazing 1887 Imperial Tournure TV163 from Truly Victorian. Pattern contains two bustles in Lobster tail style: Imperial Tournure suited for late bustle era (1880's) and Regular Tournure suited for early bustle era (1870's). I made the Imperial Tournure version. 

Materials used:
  • 2,5m cotton drill
  • 5m 13mm wide plastic coated steel boning
  • 14 U-tips
  • hooks and eyes
  • 6m cotton bias binding

I used coverlocker Cornelia for Front edges of the skirt and for top and bottom edges of the Inner Back. Quick and neat, plus I like the triple row of stitching :)

Sewed and trimmed darts of Front.

The Backs sewed together and seams trimmed with pinking sheers to prevent unraveling. The way they did it back then ;)

Bias binding pinned onto markings. This will form channels for boning.

And my little assistant Dottie couldn´t wait and had to get a picture taken. :)

Back with pinned channels prepared for sewing.

All pieces pinned together. Bottom ruffle attached and trimmed with wide lace trim.

How to fit 13mm wide steel boning into 11mm wide U-tips. Trim the edges. And wear safety goggles!

Finished Tournure, back and side view. I´m very happy how this turned out. It fits perfectly and it was fun to make! I was thinking of making another one in patterned fabric. In fact bustles were often made from patterned or dyed fabric in Victorian times.

A detail of the lace trim.

That´s all folks, have a nice weekend! <3

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