Hello again!
My second replica dress is finished! :) This one is from 1850s and is made of printed cotton. Pattern is from the book Making Victorian Costumes for Women by Heather Audin. I made some alterations and I drafted the pattern myself again.
I did some hand embroidery using Cotton Perle thread over the smocking. This provides embellishment as well as it strengthens the smocking against coming apart.
Instead of boning I used horsebraid on side-seams and center back. Attached by hand using overcasting stitch.
Both collar and hem on the bodice have corded piping which can be tricky to work with. Here´s how I did the corners: allow about 2 cm extra length for piping, fold facing over. Pull piping downwards and sew over. Trim excess piping and corner.
Finished corner.
Inside of the bodice.
Facing attached by hand using cat stitch.
I did the sleeve-caps differently. The pattern suggests only one layer and edge folded under. I made them double, joined at the bottom edge.
Finished sleeve-caps with double row of lace trimming.
Sleeves fit in the armhole beautifully! How happy that makes me. :)
Sewing bodice to skirt with my dear assistant Basil. Skirt is cartridge-pleated to waistband and then sewn to bodice forming an overlap.
Front view of finished 1850s dress. Photographed with a crinoline underneath.
Side views of the finished dress.
Detail of the bodice and sleeve.
Closures. I didn´t use hooks all the way down the bodice, instead I used 4 snap fasteners for greater security since, due to smocking, the dress is very snug fit. Second picture shows overlap of the skirt and skirt fastening. Again I used 3 snap fasteners for the skirt so the seam is fully closed.
Detail of skirt´s attachment.
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