Cocoon Coat

Hello everybody!

I´m back! :) I´ve been really busy in autumn and didn´t get around to post here. When it comes to my handicrafts, I've been mostly knitting and crocheting. Not so much sewing. I will try to update the projects I've made as I get the pictures taken. 

But now I'm all excited (again) sewing my own wardrobe! :) The winter came to Finland (finally) and I only have one proper winter coat I have sewn couple of years ago. I don´t count the coats I´ve got from the High Street since they´re not what I call proper. ;) I have had fabrics and supplies for his coat for a while but didn´t get around to sew it. Sewing winter coats can be a laborious project, especially if you put in interlining as well as lining. My main fabric was quite thin so I've decided to put in a warm fleece-interlining. The pattern for this coat is from Burda 10/2013 magazine.

I sewn the outer layer (main fabric) on Agatha using ultra glide foot a.k.a. teflon foot. The fabric wasn´t feeding evenly with the regular straight stitch foot. 

I´ll take you through how I assembled the coat after finishing sewing three layers separately. 

1. Outer layer of main fabric

2. Fleece-interlining

3. Taffeta-lining

Here´s the outer layer turned inside out. 

Tip! Pull pockets inside out so they don´t get accidentally caught into stitching (not seen on the picture).

Fleece-interlining pulled over the outer layer and under facings (for about 1,5 cm which equals the seam allowance), wrong sides together and pinned in place. Tip! Hem and bottom of the sleeves of the outer layer has 4 cm seam allowance. For fleece-interlining cut hem and bottom of the sleeves with no allowance to avoid any bulk.

Detail of the back of neck with silver pins. Facings are pulled over the interlining.

Facing hand-stitched to fleece-interlining only. The outer layer must not get caught into this stitches for it will pull and be ugly!

Taffeta-lining pulled over the fleece-interlining, wrong side down and pinned in place. All seams must be lined to get a perfect fit.

Detail of the pinning.

Lining hand-stitched in place again only into facings and not all the way through the coat.

Front and 3/4 view of the finished coat. I love the outcome! Great pattern! This is first coat of cocoon shape I have ever had. Quite strange but fun! The coat narrows down and widens in the middle. There is plenty of room for thick knitted pullover if weather requires it. :)

Side and back view of the finished coat.

Thanks for viewing, see you next time! :)