Winter Capes

Hello everyone! 

I needed a winter cape as modern coats won´t fit over a bustle nor big skirts. So I made three capes! One needs a variety don´t you think? ;) 

First one is 1890´s cape made in boucle wool fabric. I don´t know if you can see it but the shine is gold. I love gold! Large black/gold bows are made from velvet fabric. The inspiration for the bows was from a fashion plate from 1890´s. Cape closes with buttons and loops and is fully interfaced with fleece for warmth. The pattern is self drafted but inspired by one in a book Making Victorian costumes for Women by Heather Audin.

Side view of the cape.

Side view of the cape.

Detail of the bows and neckline.

Second one is Talma made in beige wool and embellished with gold tassels. Yeah, gold again... The pattern is from Truly Victorian (Talma Wrap). It´s perfect for 1870´s and 1880´s as it fits over a bustle. It fastens in front with buttons and it has a waist tape to make it snug over the back. This Talma is also interfaced with fleece for warmth and lined with viscose satin lining.

Side and back view of Talma.

Button closures.

Detail of the back and tassel trim.

And the third cape is Evening Cape made in two cohesive off-white wool fabrics and embellished with white guipure lace and crystals and sequins. All crystals and sequins are hand sewn. The cape is flat-lined with viscose-satin lining. No fleece for this one. The pattern is from Lynn McMasters (19th Century Evening Cape) and fits for years 1885-1895. I am happy with the outcome but I have to say the pattern needs adjusting. Sleeve caps were supposed to be gathered into armhole to form a small puff on top but no gathering was needed as the sleeves fitted perfectly. I would have liked the small puff. Well, next time then...

Detail of  collar and frog closures. I also used large hooks and eyes below frog closure.

Side view of the cape.

Back view of the cape.

Detail of the trim and sequin/crystal embroidery.

Matching muff for the cape. Center lace panel is hand embroidered with sequins.

Detail of the muff.

I still have to make hats for these capes and maybe some more muffs... 

That´s all for today, thank you for reading! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! :)

1890´s Purple/green Day Dress

Hello again!

My next project I wanted to share with you is 1890´s Day Dress. I made it in early autumn. The idea for this dress started with cream floral quilt-weight cotton I had in my fabric stash. I absolutely love this fabric with purple flowers and yellow-green leaves (which is my favorite shade of green). The fabric piece was too small for anything big but I knew I wanted to pair it with other fabrics anyway. Next I found this rich purple cotton velvet in my stash, which was the perfect shade. That´s when I knew the silhouette and type of dress I wanted to make. All that was missing was skirt fabric. So I got  a green taffeta with most beautiful sheen.

Preview of the 1890´s Day Dress. Bodice is flat-lined and fully boned with 5mm spiral steel boning. It fastens in front with hooks and eyelets, buttons are purely decorative. 

Mutton leg sleeves assembled and ready to be inserted. I used for these sleeves pattern by Laughing Moon (LM103). 

Skirt hem ruffle before ironing, 6,5 meters of it!

Sewing the hem ruffle on my Singer 221K Featherweight. It took some serious measuring and precision to get the pleats even. After attaching the ruffle to the skirt I hand-sewed notches on all pleats to keep the purple lining visible. Two notches per pleat.

Front view of finished 1890´s Day Dress.  Again please excuse the silhouette of the skirt. I haven´t yet made the appropriate 1890´s petticoat to give it the proper flare.  

Side and back view of the dress.

Detail of the back.

Finished hem ruffle.

Accompanying hat to the dress. This is one of my favorite hats. It is a Bustle era hat and the pattern is from Lynn McMasters. Embellishments are my own. These hats were still worn in first half of 1890´s so it is appropriate for the dress. The inspiration for this hat were hats in the show Lizzie Borden Chronicles which has probably the best costumes ever.

Side and back view of the hat.

Then I made Victorian underbust corset. I drafted the pattern from Dore Corset pattern (overbust) by Laughing Moon. This is a one layer corset in jacquard coutil with wide spring steel busk. I will have to get a better photo of this.

Detail of a modesty panel in the back.

Edwardian hat referred to as a Togue. The pattern was from a book Making Edwardian Costumes for Women by Suzanne Rowland. It is a reproduction hat. The frame is made of wires and then netting is applied over it. Trim is all hand-stitched using net, knitting yarn and gold trim. 

Side view of the togue with organza flower made by me.

This hat reminds me of Dowager Countess of Grantham from Downton Abbey. The colors fits as well! Now I still have to make a dress or cape or dress & cape to go with it.

Thank you for reading and have a nice weekend!

1850´s and 1870´s Day Dresses

Hello everyone!

Here is the last part of our summer photo-shoot which I didn´t get around posting. But better late than never. ;) 

I´m wearing a 1850´s Printed Cotton Day Dress with a circular crinoline underneath. Sewing process of this dress can be found here. The skirt is attached to the bodice which fastens in front with hooks and eyelets. Skirt fastens with tiny snap fasteners on a side.

The lace shawl I´m wearing is knitted in brushed alpaca yarn using Estonian traditional shawl pattern called Lilac Leaf Shawl. The pattern is from a book Knitted Lace of Estonia by Nancy Bush.

Victorian Wrist Warmers are knitted in wool-silk blend and the pattern is from a book Knitting Lingerie Style by Joan McGowan-Michael.

Detail of a smocking on the bodice.

And the second dress modeled by my sister Lily is a 1870´s Taffeta Day Dress. Sewing process of this dress can by found here. Imperial bustle is worn underneath the skirt. Dress is in four pieces- bodice, skirt, overskirt and a peplum. Bodice fastens in front with hooks and eyelets.

Sleeves have large heavily embellished cuffs which were typical for this period.

Back view of the dress.

Detail of the cuff. Gloves were crocheted by me.

Matching reticule with machine embroidery and tassel trim. 

Bustle Era Hat embellished with floral trim on a brim, cascading satin bows on both sides and large satin bows in front, netting and a flower in the back. Pattern is from Lynn McMasters (Bustle Era Hat, view B).

Side view of the hat.

That´s all for today, I hope you enjoyed the pictures as much as we enjoyed taking them! See you next time! :)